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A septum piercing heals in two to three months, which is quick for a nose piercing. Its jewelry is where people run into trouble: the piece that looks best is usually not the one to start with.
Start with a circular barbell in implant-grade titanium, or a retainer if you need it hidden. Clickers, seamless rings and decorative pieces come once it has healed.
Photo by brandonvanityflickr via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0.
The styles compared
| Style | What it is | When to wear it |
|---|---|---|
| Circular barbell (horseshoe) | A horseshoe-shaped barbell with a ball at each end | From day one. The standard first piece |
| Retainer | A clear or skin-tone piece, sits inside the nostrils | From day one, if you need it invisible |
| Clicker | A hinged ring that clicks shut | Healed only |
| Seamless ring | One continuous ring, opened by twisting the ends apart | Healed only |
| Captive bead ring | A ring held shut by a bead, opened with pliers | Healed only |
| Dangles and charms | Decoration hanging from a ring | Healed only, and lightweight |
A circular barbell is the standard first piece for a reason. It is easy to clean, it can be flipped up when the piercing has healed, and the ends screw on and off. A clicker is the classic look, but it needs handling every time you take it out or put it in. That handling irritates a piercing that is still healing.
The ring styles guide explains the differences between clickers, seamless rings, captive bead rings and circular barbells in more detail.
Gauge and diameter
Septum jewelry is described by two numbers:
- Gauge: most septums are pierced at 16 gauge (1.2 mm), and some at 14 gauge (1.6 mm).
- Inner diameter: usually 8 to 10 mm.
What sets the diameter is the distance from the piercing to the bottom edge of your septum, which a piercer measures at the appointment. A ring that is too small presses on the channel constantly. One that is too large hangs low and shows even when flipped up.
Hinged and seamless rings need the diameter to be exact, because they cannot be adjusted. Nose ring sizes covers gauge, diameter and how to measure for every nose placement.
What to wear and when
| When | Wear | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Piercing day | Circular barbell sized for swelling, or a retainer | Your piercer chooses the diameter |
| 4-6 weeks | The same style, downsized | Done by your piercer, once the swelling has gone |
| 2-3 months | Fully healed: any style that fits | Only after it passes the four tests |
| After that | Clickers, dangles, decorative rings | Keep weight light |
The four tests are: no tenderness, no discharge or crusting for two weeks, no redness, and jewelry that moves freely. Septum piercing healing time has the stages, and nose piercing healing times explains how a septum compares with other nose placements.
Flipping it up
A septum ring can be flipped up into the nostrils to hide it, which is one of the piercing’s best features. There is a catch: every flip drags the jewelry through the channel.
In a healed septum, that is fine. In a healing one, it is the main thing that extends healing. If you need it hidden at work or school from the first day, wear a retainer instead of flipping a ring twice a day. See piercing retainers.
Material
The Association of Professional Piercers sets standards for jewelry in a new piercing:
- Implant-grade titanium (ASTM F136), the usual choice.
- Niobium or platinum.
- Solid gold, 14k or higher, nickel- and cadmium-free.
- A polished, mirror finish.
Avoid plated, gold-filled and vermeil jewelry, and steel that does not state its standard.
Cheap clickers are widely sold as fashion accessories, so look for the alloy and the standard before you buy one. The materials guide explains what to look for, and nickel allergy and piercings covers how to recognise a reaction.
Weight and decoration
Once it has healed, you can wear more decorative pieces. Keep the weight light. Heavy or dangling jewelry pulls on the channel and, over time, stretches it. Save a big statement piece for occasions rather than wearing it every day.
Going up a gauge
Many people prefer the way a 14 gauge ring sits. If you know you want it, say so before the needle. Piercing at 14 from the start avoids stretching later.
If you already have a 16 gauge septum and want a thicker ring, the change means stretching. Do it gradually, do not force jewelry through the channel, and ask a piercer for help. The principles of slow stretching are the same as for ears; see ear stretching.
Signs the jewelry is wrong
- The ring presses on the channel or leaves a mark. It is too small.
- The ring hangs low and shows even when flipped up. It is too large.
- Redness, itching or weeping after a new piece goes in. It can be a reaction to the metal.
- A crooked look when the ring sits. See septum piercing for what causes it.
Cost
A plain titanium horseshoe is inexpensive, and a decorative clicker sits at the top of the range. How much is a septum piercing adds up the first-year total, and the nose piercing cost guide has a table of jewelry prices. Retainers are cheap and worth buying alongside.
Frequently asked questions
What jewelry is best for a septum piercing?
A circular barbell (horseshoe) in implant-grade titanium to start, or a retainer if you need it hidden from day one. Clickers and seamless rings are for once it has healed, at two to three months.
What size septum ring do I need?
Most septum jewelry is 16 gauge, sometimes 14, with an inner diameter of 8 to 10 mm. What decides it is the distance from your piercing to the bottom edge of your septum, which your piercer measures at the appointment. Too small presses on the channel; too large hangs and shows.
Can I wear a clicker in a new septum piercing?
No. A clicker has to be opened and closed, and the repeated handling irritates a piercing that is still healing. Wear a circular barbell until it has healed, then switch.
Is it okay to flip my septum ring up?
Once it has healed, yes. In a healing piercing, every flip drags the jewelry through the channel and slows healing. If you need it hidden all day while healing, wear a retainer from the start instead of flipping a ring.
What is a septum retainer?
A clear or skin-toned piece of jewelry, in titanium or glass, that sits inside the nostrils and is very hard to see. It keeps the channel open when you need the piercing hidden, and it can be worn from the first day.
Should I get a 14 gauge septum piercing?
Many people prefer the way a 14 gauge ring sits. If you want that, say so before the needle, because going from 16 to 14 later means stretching the piercing, which takes time and should be done gradually.
Sources
- Association of Professional Piercers - Jewelry for initial piercingshttps://safepiercing.org/jewelry-for-initial-piercings/
- Association of Professional Piercers - Suggested aftercare for body piercingshttps://safepiercing.org/aftercare/
- Association of Professional Piercers - Troubleshootinghttps://safepiercing.org/troubleshooting/