An Ashley piercing goes through the centre of the lower lip itself: in through the front of the lip, out behind it inside the mouth. From the outside you see a single bead sitting on the lip, which is what makes it distinctive.
It is sometimes called an inverse vertical labret, which describes it well. A vertical labret runs up inside the lip with a bead at each end and never enters the mouth. An Ashley runs straight back through the lip and does.
What it looks like, and what it does not
The single visible bead sits centred on the lower lip. Nothing shows below the lip, which is the difference people are usually after: it reads cleaner and more minimal than a labret sitting below the lip line.
The trade-off is on the inside, and it is the main thing to understand before booking.
Your teeth are close
A standard labret exits below the lip, where the flat disc rests against the soft inner lip with a reasonable distance to the gum. An Ashley exits through the lip itself, which puts the disc directly in front of your lower front teeth.
That is not a reason to avoid it, but it does mean fit matters more here than almost anywhere else:
- Downsize on time, at two to four weeks. An over-long post on this placement sits right where your teeth are.
- Ask for the smallest comfortable disc. Less surface against enamel.
- Tell your dentist you have one, and have them look at the lower front teeth and gum at each check-up rather than waiting for you to notice a problem.
If a dentist has already flagged wear or recession from a previous lip piercing, a vertical labret is the safer placement for the same area.
Migration
Ashleys migrate more often than standard labrets. Two reasons: the channel through the lip is short, and the lip moves constantly with speech and eating.
What reduces the risk is a piercer who assesses whether your lip has the volume to hold it. A full lower lip gives a reasonably long, stable channel. A thin one gives a short channel under constant movement, which is the classic setup for migration. Being told your lip is not suited is a piercer doing their job.
Pain
About 4 out of 10, a step above a standard labret because the needle passes through the body of the lip.
Swelling is pronounced for the first three to five days, and because the jewelry sits on the lip itself, a swollen lip makes the piercing feel tight. This is exactly why the initial post is long, and exactly why the downsize is not optional.
Healing
Two to three months.
- Days 1-5: peak swelling, a tight-feeling lip, difficulty eating neatly.
- Weeks 1-3: swelling subsides, crusting on the outside bead, light white discharge inside.
- Weeks 4-12: the channel matures internally.
Downsize at two to four weeks, without fail.
Aftercare
Outside: sterile saline twice a day, patted dry with clean paper towel. Inside: an alcohol-free antibacterial or saline rinse after eating, after anything other than water, and after smoking. No alcohol-based mouthwash.
Small bites and cold, soft food for the first fortnight. A bead on the front of the lower lip meets the rim of every cup you pick up, so drink carefully at first. The aftercare guide has the routine.
Jewelry
Flat-back labret stud, 16 gauge, implant-grade titanium, 8 to 10 mm to start and downsized to 5 or 6 mm. Threadless or internally threaded only. See the materials guide.
Once healed, a small gem or plain ball is the usual look. Keep the disc small: on this placement the back matters more than the front.
Related placements
- Vertical labret: the same area with no opening inside the mouth, and the better choice if teeth are a concern.
- Labret: below the lip rather than through it.
- Medusa: the upper-lip counterpart in the philtrum.
Cost
$40 to $80 in a US studio, plus jewelry. Slightly above a standard labret because the assessment and marking take longer. Tip 15 to 20 percent.
Frequently asked questions
What is an Ashley piercing?
A single piercing through the centre of the lower lip itself. It enters on the front of the lip and exits behind it, inside the mouth, so only one bead is visible from the outside. It is sometimes called an inverse vertical labret.
What is the difference between an Ashley and a vertical labret?
An Ashley has one visible bead on the lip and exits inside the mouth. A vertical labret has two visible beads and no opening inside the mouth at all. They sit in the same area and look nothing alike.
Does an Ashley piercing hurt?
About 4 out of 10. It passes through the body of the lip rather than the thin tissue below it, which makes it a little sharper and longer than a standard labret. Swelling in the first few days is significant.
Is an Ashley piercing bad for your teeth?
It deserves more caution than most lip piercings. The flat back sits inside the lip directly in front of your lower front teeth, so correct post length and disc size matter more here than almost anywhere else. Have a dentist monitor it.
Does an Ashley piercing reject easily?
It migrates more often than a standard labret because the lip moves constantly and the channel is short. Choosing a piercer who assesses lip volume properly, and downsizing on time, are the two things that make the difference.
Can everyone get an Ashley piercing?
No. It needs a lower lip with enough body to hold a stud securely. A thin lip gives a short channel that is quick to migrate, and a good piercer will say so rather than take the booking.
Sources
- Association of Professional Piercers - Suggested aftercare for oral piercingshttps://safepiercing.org/oral-aftercare/
- Association of Professional Piercers - Jewelry for initial piercingshttps://safepiercing.org/jewelry-for-initial-piercings/
- American Dental Association (MouthHealthy) - Oral piercingshttps://www.mouthhealthy.org/all-topics-a-z/oral-piercings
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This article is for education only and is not medical advice. If a piercing is hot, swollen, spreading redness, oozing yellow or green discharge, or you have a fever, see a doctor today.